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Messages - jkmorse

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1
New Scripts and Modules / Re: Pattern subtraction scripts
« on: 2019 October 14 15:43:40 »
Vincent,

Great script, as usual.  One question.  I did not see any definition of the imageShift parameter.  What criteria should I use to modify that value?

Thanks,

Jim

2
General / Re: Converting image to non linear.
« on: 2019 October 14 07:39:42 »
Tom,

It might just look like a double stretch because you haven't turned off STF.  Before or after stretching (it really doesn't matter) simply shut off STF and everything should look fine.

Jim

3
General / Re: Can't create proper stretched image
« on: 2019 October 14 07:34:10 »
John,

Another way forward that is easy to get the image to match what you see in the linear form is to open ScreenTransferFunction (STF) and HistogramTransform (HT).  Make sure the image you are interested in is highlighted with a blue band around it and that you have selected it in HT.  Then grab the little triangle at the bottom left on STF and drop it onto the bottom bar on HT.  Then simply apply HT to the image by dragging the little triangle at the bottom left of HT onto the image.

If you are interested I have a workbook that I freely share that should help you get through the starting jitters.  If interested just drop me a note at jkmorse57@gmail.com.

Hope that helps.

Jim 

4
Mike,

Just a new thank you.  I was struggling using MureDN with my SBIG 6303E but I has recently switched it out for an FLI Microline 16803 and Mure is working beautifully again.  It is just a just a joy using such a well designed script.

Best,

Jim

5
General / 11002 vs 6303E
« on: 2018 September 04 15:30:20 »
Hey folks,

I have been shooting with an SBIG STXL 6303E for some time now and while it has great sensitivity, dealing with the blooms is, frankly, a royal pain in the behind.  Since I am not and will not be doing astrometry, using a CCD with an anti-blooming gate is not really an issue.  In order to control costs, I want to stay in SBIG’s STXL line so I can use the same filters, filter wheel and AOX set up.  That means I am looking at the 11002, mainly due to chip and pixel size.

Can folks who use the 11002 give me their thoughts and also would love to hear from anyone who has experience with a direct comparison.

Thanks all,

Jim

6
General / Re: Where did arcsinh stretch go?
« on: 2018 September 03 19:47:35 »
Duh,  My god it sucks getting older  :o

7
General / Where did arcsinh stretch go?
« on: 2018 September 02 18:27:05 »
Can't seem to find the link any longer.  Is it still available?

Thanks,

Jim

8
Off-topic / Re: New scope recommendations
« on: 2018 August 28 17:49:57 »
Too bad I am as behind answering your note as I am updating the website  :o

9
Off-topic / Re: New scope recommendations
« on: 2018 July 12 16:28:09 »
Yep, and the one I meant is only $3000.  Check out the images listed as "Older Images" as you scroll down on my opening webpage at http://jimmorse-astronomy.com/.  The first 7 of those were shot using the 130D Astrograph as well as M42 and the Pieiades further down a bit.  Its a beauty. 

Best, Jim

10
Off-topic / Re: New scope recommendations
« on: 2018 July 10 16:03:03 »
John,

I would seriously give a look to adding a Takahashi 130ed to your list.  It is a superb scope and right in your price range.  And at f/3.3, it is also super fast for astrophotography.

Best,

Jim

11
General / Re: Glitch in DBE
« on: 2018 April 13 18:31:08 »
A couple of points.  On DBE controls, when you rotate through the squares, there are two arrow controls.  One, with 1 arrow, moves you 1 square at a time.  The double arrow jumps you 20.  You must be using the double arrow by mistake.

As to nebulosity, you definitely do need to avoid the dust clouds, unless they are truly black.  Otherwise you risk losing lots of detail in the subtle nebulosity.  One way to avoid the problem is to do a maximum STF stretch so you can see the nebulosity more clearly so you can avoid it.  Also, remember, you don't need many points for a good DBE solution unless you are dealing with serious light pollution gradients.  I typically only place a couple in each corner and a few others dispersed around the rest of the image.  More is definitely not better when using DBE.

Best,

Jim 

12
General / Re: GREEN Channel Vertical Banding
« on: 2018 March 25 14:58:43 »
Just for an experiment, try aligning the green subs WITHOUT calibrating them first.  I know that sounds crazy but I bet it "fixes" the problem.  If it does then we have a different direction to investigate.  I sometimes run into just this problem with narrowband images and simply have to do a work around of ImageCalibration by cleaning up the subs/image with CosmeticCorrection, ImageIntegration, and DBE.

Let me know if that helps at all.

Jim

13
General / Re: GREEN Channel Vertical Banding
« on: 2018 March 25 11:31:30 »
Bill,

First, that is more than vertical banding, but some kind of matrix grid affecting your Green channel.  Am I correct in assuming that you are star aligning each color separately?  If so, one thing to try is using the recommended method of star aligning all subs from all colors in the same run (its always best to minimize the number of times you run star alignment due to the distortions it can introduce).  Try doing that using a red or blue sub as the master and see what happens.

Best,

Jim 

14
General / Re: The blue filter...
« on: 2018 March 25 11:26:05 »
I think most people shoot all RGBs the same length.  That said, you need to adapt to your own sky and adjust as necessary.  You did not say what you were shooting.  Is it a target with weak blues to begin with?  What's your light pollution like?

Best,

Jim

15
Bug Reports / Re: Problems in newly created Dark Masters
« on: 2018 February 08 12:02:25 »
Thanks Juan.  Its just strange that my 2016 Dark works fine but the new 2018 dark is a bust.

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