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Messages - rtemen

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Thanks, Rob.
I'll work on this in the morning.


My newbie status is going to show here big time.
First, what is OSC?
Second, I am not sure what a couple of your steps are and when they are done.
Here is what I have been doing for the past year.  Please tell me where to adjust and where de-bayering takes place.

I use ImageIntegration on my Biases to make a MasterBias.
I use ImageIntegration on my Darks to make a MasterDark.
Then I use ImageCalibration on my flats to apply the MasterBias and MasterDark to the flats making my calibrated flats.
I use ImageIntegration on the calibrated flats to make the MasterFlat.
Then I use ImageCalibration on the Lights applying the MasterBias, the MasterDark, and the MasterFlat.
Then I use Star Alignment on the calibrated lights to make registered lights.
Then ImageIntegration on the registered Lights for the final integrated file.

So, that all said, how does this match with your statement of "calibration, debayer, register, integrate"?
Are all of my steps above included in your calibration step before debayer?

Thanks for your assistance.


Thanks, Rob.  That did the trick on my main test.
So, should all of my Image Integrations and Image Calibrations and final stacking in this pre-processing phase all be done in the non-debayered mode?
Then, during image processing, will things get changed back into color for the final picture processing?


I do not know how to make the bias and dark frames monochrome.
I set my camera to monochrome and take a picture.
When I open the file with PI it is in color.
I took a regular picture with my camera of my office.  It is monochrome when viewed on my camera.
After downloading my picture to my computer and use the Windows viewing programs, it shows monochrome.
When I open it in PI, it is color.

Please help???


Thanks for all of your info.  I will check your suggestions out.

More info to share with you...
I have received the following info from another PixInsightForum member:
He indicates that my Master Dark and MasterBias are debayered stretched RGBs. Therefore they are not usable
for proper calibration. 
Calibration has to be done on the raw mono CR2 files with mono master files. Not with stretched RGB calibration Master files.
The bias and darks are important because you have a very noisy camera with thousand of warm/hot pixels which need to be removed.
Wow, all of the tutorials that I have been following have never mentioned that. Again, like you say, how do you know who is correct?

Also, I have heard many opinions about half and half on either side where half the people say that the Biases are to be taken at the lowest ISO, and the other half says they have to match the ISO of your lights.

How do I tell which is correct?  Isn't there a PixInsight Guru that knows the right answers? I would think that the developers of the program would have to know the ultimate answer since they wrote the software to process the files.

The manual for my camera (Canon T3i) does say that the noise reduction is done internally, so there are not 2 files, rather each CR2 has already been cleaned up.  I did a test and made a 3 minute shot with no noise correction and another 3 minute shot with noise correction.
I opened both in PI and stretched them the same.  The one with the noise correction looks much, much better.

So, I will give it a try using IC with only my flats applied to my lights and see what result I get.


Hi Gerald.
WOW! I do not recall seeing any tutorial that tells me anything about using mono for bias and darks.
So this is all news to me.
Is there a tutorial that you know of that teaches how to do these things to get the proper bias and dark frames?


A quick lead in so you know where I am coming from.
Lately, I have been doing a lot of reading of posts on several big astronomy forums.
I have come across two major items.
1. One post explained that today's DSLRs usually subtract the bias information automatically before creating your raw result.  Therefore, he indicates that running the process of removing the bias again is actually hurting the picture quality.
2. Another post points out that my DSLR (Canon T3i) has a feature to enable long exposure noise reduction automatically for each picture.  If this is enabled, I will not need to do some additional pre-processing steps.  His result was that now I would only need the cleaned up Lights and the Flats.
If this is the case, what are the processing steps to go through to pre-process my pics with only the Lights and Flats?

Thanks for any opinions on all of this, and if this is ok to try, what are the steps and in what order.


Hi, Gerald.
Well, here is a link to a folder with everything in it. The biases and the darks are not here, just their master versions.
Thanks for offering to look at this.


Hi, Gerald.
Thanks for looking in to these for me.
I wanted to let you know what I am using.
I have a C11 and my Canon T3i.
These shots were made after attaching my Meade Focal Reducer.
The pictures that I take have what I call a doughnut in the middle.
The very center of the shot is one shade. Then there is a torus(doughnut) around that which seems a little brighter, and then extremely dark area to the rest of the edges.
When I asked a few questions of the place where I bought the reducer, the answer was sort of like 'that is how they work and your flats will compensate for it'.
So far, I am not able to do anything, as you can see from my pics.

Are you by chance in the U.S. where we might chat on the phone?
I would probably understand some of your descriptions if you translated some of the terms since I am new to PI.


Hi, all.
Well, I have been viewing several tutorials on the process of calibrating and stacking.
In most cases, when the tutorial shows the resulting light after the masterflat has been applied, there is almost no vignetting left, and the background seems very even all across the field.
When I do these procedures, I get a horrible result. (At least I think they are horrible.)
I am attaching one of my lights, one flat, the masterflat and a calibrated result.
Could anyone look these over to see if there is a basic problem with any of these files?
Any suggestions on what might be wrong would be appreciated. Or if the files are ok, then what I might be doing wrong.
I have tried both Automatic and Dynamic background extraction and I frankly cannot see any difference in the results.
Thanks for any assistance.
Here are the files.

Hi, again.
Now that they all aligned, I stacked them.
The resulting file is quite disappointing.
I have been running several tests/experiments with this set of files.
What I seem to be seeing is that no matter if I stacked these shots with or without using flats, it results in this file which looks identical to me whether I used the flats or not.
Then, I followed several tutorials out there on the internet, and I cannot get rid of any of that rainy streaky looking stuff.
Would you (or anyone else that can see this file), have some time to analyze it with the pixinsight tools to let me know if there is something drastically wrong with the file so that I may learn what is happening?

Here is the link to the file.

Thanks to anyone who can look at it and coach me.


Thank you much.
That did the trick.

I have 10 lights of M104 and I have tried a dozen times or more to get them to star align.
I have tried many tweaks of various parameters, to no avail.
Would anyone be able/willing to look at the two sample files and let me know what I need to do to get them to align?

Here are the two files:


I took many 3 minute exposures of the asteroid moving through Coma Berenices the other night.
Is it possible to stack some of them together to create a 'mosaic'  showing the trail of the asteroid among the stars.
I am able to align the stars but would like to blend them together to see the total path of the asteroid.


Hi, Rob.  Sorry for the delay since our last communication.
Some questions if I may.
You indicated that there is a zip file 'there' that I didn't download.
Where is this zip file and what is it for?

You described how the pictures can drift a bit as each picture is taken.
I am pretty sure that with the same equipment and procedures, I sometimes can get a collection of shots with no drift, and sometimes they will drift from pic to pic.
What do you think would be the cause of this?  Perhaps I need to better adjust something.


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