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Messages - rtemen

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1
Is there a detailed tutorial on how to use CatalogStarGenerator?

2
Here are the first three files.

Rich

3
I tried to use that, and was following a tutorial.
The result that I got when the process ran was a new frame that was cropped to only contained the area where the two pictures overlapped.
Perhaps I did not understand the suggested steps in the example.
What I am looking for is a set of pictures in a line where each picture over lays the previous one.

Rich

4
I have a set of 8 jpg shots of an asteroid moving through a constellation.
I would like to line them up and make a mosaic.
But, I actually want to just position the shots over each other manually and them form them into a mosaic.
So far, all of the suggestions seem to direct me to Star Alignment or Dynamic Alignment.
I am not able to get either of these tools to work.
Is there a way to just manually drag the pics over each other and then make a mosaic of the views as they sit on the screen?

Rich

6
I have taken ten shots of the 2014 J025 passing through a constellation.
Each shot was a time exposure, and when the path of the asteroid about filled the view, I stopped the photo capture, move the camera to the right and then took another time exposure. Therefore, I have a path of shots across the constellation that I wanted to make a mosaic out of.

I would like to align the 10 shots to overlay/mirror my ten shots over the actual constellation.
This should show the path of the asteroid as it traveled through the constellation.
I have tried several times to use the Mosaic tool, but I cannot get anywhere with it.

Can anyone guide me to how to align the shots to make my mosaic?

Rich

7
It turns out that if I turned off the Hot Pixel Threshold and used the Auto Detect with the Hot Sigma left a 3.0, they all disappeared.


8
I have a situation where the CC is not eliminating all the hot pixels.
When I use the Real Time Preview window zoomed in on a particular area, when sliding the Sigma level to the left (smaller) this pixel will not go away.
In fact, when the Sigma slider goes all the way down to 0, it turns that one pixel into three pixels.

Any help is appreciated.

Rich

9
Yes, it is a color camera. 
Canon T3i (600D)
When I start PI, I first select pure raw first.

I am in Cave Creek.  Would you be open to talking?

Rich

10
Image Processing Challenges / Help with ImageCalibration results
« on: 2018 January 14 08:41:49 »
Hi, all.
I was wondering if I could get some guidance on my first step of processing my lights.
I have a before and after file in my dropbox.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hm4vlra13ng6rto/AABWEv2wd7oA33E7Evbn-PB9a?dl=0

It looks to my untrained eye that the before is nicer and cleaner than the after.
Here I used my light with my MasterSuperBias, MasterDark and MasterFlat.
Is the after supposed to look like this, or is there something wrong with my Masters?

Thanks.

11
Hi, all.
Thanks for all of the help.

Rob, I did build myself a variable light box, and I am getting the proper exposures that everyone has been coaching me on.

Visit my page to see the lightbox that I built.
http://astronomy.richtemen.com/lightbox.html

Thanks again, everyone.
Rich

12
Hi, Rob. Thanks for the quick reply.
Holy cow, I am so much a newbie at so much of this, I am embarrassed to admit.

What is   # ADU at center of frame  and where/how do I find that info?  What does ADU stand for?

I am able to vary the brightness of my lightbox.  Currently it is just at 1650 Lumens, 4,000K color temp.
Is this default value too bright? I can easily enable the box to control brightness.

Rich

13
I have been trying to learn the best way to determine that I have suitable flats.
I have a Canon T3i that I use for my shots.  I have a lightbox for taking my flats.

I seem to be finding two different philosophies while trying to google info on determining the best flats.

1. Take flats so that the histogram hits at about 1/3 of the way from the left.
2. Take flats so that the median just a touch over half the maximum, around 51%. (this data is in the Statistics for the shot in PI)

What I seem to find is that the two methods cannot meet. 
For example, if I put the histogram at 1/3 of the way, the percentage is like 80% to 90% or more.
Or, if I start changing the exposure to bring the percentage down towards the 51%, then the histogram is off the scale to the right.

So, what is the proper way to determine that I have the best exposure for my flats?

Rich

14
Thanks, that would be great.
I'll keep my eye open for your info.

Rich

15
Hi, Wim and Rob.
Thanks for this very educational information about the blue bloating and difference of focus between the color wavelengths.

Wim, I have to admit that I am very much a novice still on PixInsight.
While your description makes sense as far as using a starmask to attenuate the undesired colors, I don't have a clue on how to implement it.
My expertise level at this point is to follow a tutorial step by step and see how it turns out.
If any particular step is not optimal, I don't know enough to know how to tweak it for better results.
That being said, I do not know the steps to take to accomplish what you are suggesting.

In Kayron's tutorial, he steps through using a StarMask. Would it be possible to handle the blue desaturation at this point?
Do you know of a tutorial on stepping me through your suggested course of action?

If I do your suggested StarMask method at the end, can I use the starmask that I saved during the Kayron tutorial?

Thanks from the novice...

Rich

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