Hi Mike,
Whilst I don't have time to dig up the background on the statistical calculations, the one 'rule of thumb' that I have always gone by is that ten subs are better than one - so take ten. The next 'step' to aim for is around the thirty-sub mark - much less than that, and you might as well only have teken ten. After thirty subs, you are probably looking to jump to one hundred subs in order to see any significant improvement.
And, it might be worth noting that these are the number of subs that you would actually be integrating - you may then want to take a few extra to allow for any 'masties' to be picked out of the mix before starting.
However, perhaps unlike many other programs, PixInsight was conceived out of the statistical approach to noise reduction. There is nothing 'simplistic' in the number-crunching power that PI can bring to bear - consequently therefore, apart from some of the 'trivial' math routines, many of the others do actually require some pretty decent knowledge about statistics and how they can improve noise reduction.
I know that this may only partly answer your question - but I would certainly not bother with taking 'hundreds' of subs (the next stage after '100' is big enough that I can't even be bothered to remember it
). And, you can also apply the same thought to the acquisition of
all of your subs (including calibration subs as well). I do tend to shoor 100 darks - but that is only because I can, after closing up the observatory for the night). Even then, my darks are so consistent, and have so little signal in them any way, I'm probably just wasting energy and contributing to global warming by acquiring them - even though I only tend to bother once a season. In fact, I have tried using a 'synthetic' Master Dark (created by PI, with the whole image only having a fixed 'Pedestal' ADU) and it more or less gives me the same image quality as a processed collection of 30 'real' Darks.
I haven't ever looked up the technical specs of my camera - after all, now that it has been purchased, there is very little that can be done to change things. I followed a Stark Labs procedure (once, a long time ago) to supposedly optimise the Gain and Offset figures - I got an answer (sort of), tried it and it seemed to work, wrote it down, and have never changed it since.
However, with all this said and done, you won't find many (if any) published/posted astro images from me anywhere. I really just take them for my own satisfaction - not for others to critique.
But, hopefully some of what I way will help either you, or someone else reading this.