GregW,
as Mike already noted, the usage of a master dark is important to get rid of the amp glow. Taking darks with the same exposure time as the light frames is fine. Then there is no need for scaling the darks, and subtracting the master dark from the light frames is all you need to do. You MUST NOT subtract both master dark and bias (or master bias), because the bias offset is already in the master dark. You don't need bias frames at all, so the bottom line is: DON'T take them.
If you are going to use flat frames, you should go on analogously for the calibration of the flat frames: take additional dark frames with the same exposure as the flat frames (i.e. flat-darks), make a master flat-dark, subtract the master flat-dark from each flat frame and integrate the calibrated flat frames to a master flat.
Regarding the appropriate gain and exposure time, Jon Rista gave good advice on the cloudynights forum "CCD/CMOS Astro Camera Imaging & Processing" for the ASI1600. It depends on the FWHM of the used filter, the aperture ratio of the scope and the extent of light pollution at your site.
Bernd