Hi again (? ? ?),
If you are using a light-box (or even an EL panel) you can take a stack of, say, 30-odd FlatFrames, and then repeat the exercise again, acquing another batch of FlatFrames - but this time you would 'rotate' the orientation of the light-box by around 90°. You would not need to acquire BiasFrames, FlatDarks, or any kind of lights.
Perform two very simple, unregistered stacks of each data set, and then subtract one MasterFlat from the other (thus eliminaating all Bias and Dark noise). Examine the final result under a fairly strong STF.
What you should see is a uniform, extremely low-level ADU across the whole image. If you don't have a uniform source of illumination, then you are going to see a spread of ADU values.
Of course, each of the stacks themselves will have variations in illumination - it is, after all, this very variation that you are trying to capture to correct anomalies in your optical train.
Now, that was easy enough for a light-box setup, where the alignment ot the light-box with respect to the X and Y axes of the imaging sensor was relatively easy to control. But, things are totally different if you are trying to work with WallFlats.
It isn't just as simple as rotating the target, and rotating to source of illumination is a complete non-starter. Perhaps (and I am free-thinking here - I have never tried this for myself) you could get a crafter's wooden 'needle-point' frame, large enough to cover your OTA, and stretch a clean cotton tee-shirt (or similar) over the frame. The whole frame could then be rotated as the OTA points directly overhead, gathering enough data to be able to demonstrate that your tee-shirt flat is at least 'uniformly illuminated'.
Could you then use one of the tee-shirt MasterFlats to then be subtracted from a stacked MasterWallFlat? Would that give you the confidence that you are looking for when using WallFlats?
All that aside, I just take plenty of Flats, and use these to calibrate an optical train that is pretty much 'perfect' (259mm / 10" f/8 Ritchey-Chrétien OTA, with a 75mm / 3" aperrture focuser, illuminating an APS-C sized CCD imager). Gone are the days when my 250mm / 10" f/4 SN tube left me fighting to illuminate image corners that looked as if they had been exposed down the centre of a toilet-roll tube
Hope this helps.